How to Rig Head Start Trolling Lures
Why the Head Start is useful
The Head Start pack contains four trolling rigs with 80 lb bead-chain traces for dead garfish, ballyhoo or sauries. The shaped head gives the bait a positive tow point and helps keep it straight, but the bait still has to be rigged properly and tested beside the boat.
A Head Start does not make every bait swim properly by itself. Bait condition, straight assembly, hook position and trolling speed still matter.
That is worth saying because the older alternatives all have compromises. A chin weight and heavy mono can work, but it still leaves you securing the bait and finding a clean tow point. Cone springs and plastic squid can suit slower skipped baits, but they do not automatically hold a dead bait straight. Ganged hooks add weight along the body and can pull a soft bait out of line. The Head Start combines the head, locating post and tow point into one repeatable arrangement. It is not magic. It simply removes several variables when it is fitted squarely.
Select straight, sound bait
Start with the best bait you can obtain. A garfish with damaged gills, a soft belly or a bent body is difficult to turn into a durable swimming bait. Keep the bait cold and handle it gently. If it has been frozen, thaw it only enough to pass the rig and align the body without cracking it.
Check that the bait is a sensible size for the Head Start head. The cover should seat around the bait’s head without forcing, and the trace must place the hook where intended. If the bait is too large or the supplied arrangement cannot be aligned, choose another bait or use an approved rig made for that size.
We normally do as much of this work as possible at home. A stable bench, clean water and time to inspect each bait produce a better result than trying to rebuild a rig while the boat is moving.
Tools and preparation
Set out:
- the current Head Start rig and trace
- fresh or properly thawed bait
- a purpose-made bait-rigging needle that suits the trace connection
- sharp bait scissors or a knife on a cutting board
- pliers appropriate for the supplied components
- clean water and disposable cloths
- bags or a vacuum-sealing system if the bait will be refrozen
Use a proper bait needle. A cut coat hanger can leave sharp, rough ends and is not recommended. Inspect the needle and trace before starting, and wear eye protection when cutting or handling wire components.
Thread the trace through the bait
For the standard garfish-style preparation, the practical sequence is:
- Trim the beak only as much as needed for the head to seat. Keep the cut clean.
- Insert the rounded or loop end of the bait needle through the mouth.
- Guide it through the body cavity and out at the vent without forcing it through the backbone or tearing the belly.
- Attach the end of the bead-chain trace to the needle.
- Draw the trace back through the bait and out of the mouth.
- Stop when the hook and trace sit in their intended position without stretching or bunching the bait.
Work slowly. If the needle catches, withdraw it and try again. Pushing harder can split the bait and create a weak hinge that spins in the water.
Seat the head and keep the bait straight
Pass the trace through the designed tow-point opening in the smaller head component. Align the Head Start with the bait’s centreline. The locating pin must pass through the intended head position cleanly and remain clear of your fingers.
Fit the cover as designed and confirm that it locks without crushing the bait. The trace should leave from the tow point without a sharp kink. Look along the bait from above and from the side. A bent body, twisted head or hook pulling hard to one side will encourage spinning.
Do not substitute screws, nails or unapproved clips. Do not cut open or re-form a supplied hook to change it. If a different hook or trace is required for a particular fishery, build a separate properly rated rig with compatible components or have a tackle specialist do it.
Optional bait variations
The same principle can be adapted to other baits only when the head seats properly, the trace reaches the intended hook position and the finished bait swims cleanly. Soft plastics and dead yellowtail have both been fitted to the system, but neither is a reason to ignore alignment or tackle strength.
Swim-test before adding it to the spread
Put the bait beside the boat at low speed where you can see it clearly. It should track straight with a natural action. If it rolls or spins:
- stop and check whether the head is centred
- straighten the body and check for a torn belly
- confirm the hook and trace are not pulling to one side
- reduce speed and test again
- replace a damaged bait rather than trying to hide the problem
Increase speed only within the safe operating range of the bait, rig and conditions. There is no single trolling speed for every bait or target. Sea state, current, lure spread and bait condition all change how it tracks.
Place the bait where it can be watched during the first few minutes. A bait that starts to spin can twist line and lose its presentation quickly.
Prepare a batch without damaging the bait
Rigging several baits at home can save valuable fishing time. Lay each finished bait straight in an individual or well-spaced bag. Remove excess air without crushing the body, label the package and freeze it flat. Keep food hygiene in mind and do not refreeze bait repeatedly.
On the boat, keep the prepared baits cold until needed. Thaw one at a time. Inspect the head, trace and hook after every strike and replace any bait that has softened, torn or begun to spin.
Pacific sauries need extra attention because their larger body can change hook placement and trace length. Use the separate Pacific saury rigging guide rather than stretching this garfish sequence to fit.
Final checks before fishing
Confirm that the cover is locked, the tow point is clear, the hook is exposed as intended and every connection is secure. Pull-test the rig with steady pressure away from people. Check the leader and main-line connection, then swim-test the bait.
The current Head Start trolling rigs can make bait preparation more repeatable, but the finished result still depends on straight rigging and careful testing. Prepare cleanly, reject damaged baits and let the bait’s behaviour beside the boat decide whether it is ready for the spread.